Welders
You can weld a steel hull together with most any process - stick and mig are the two most common. I started with stick, 'cause that's what my buddy/instructor liked. It's pretty simple, more tolerant for dirt and wind, and there's no moving parts to the welder. It is rather handy in that the leads can be almost as long as you like, so you set up the welder where it's safe, the ground where it's solid, and then only have to worry about the welding lead. Stainless is a 15 sec change-over; it's just a different rod. It's great for hard to reach spots, with the smallest 'head' of any process - and for me, it gave the greatest penetration. The slag is the downside - it tends to hide the weld puddle, you need to chip it off afterwards - and then you have to clean it all up.
Here's the welder I used the most - a Miller Dialarc 250, capable of taking 240 thru 600 V input (remember, the steel mill had industrial power - think it was rigged for 440 V). Big heavy, stable unit - I never came close to using it's full range. Bought it used, and 12 years later, it owes me nothing. Still works despite lots of abuse - but I seldom use it anymore, as it's just too heavy/awkward vs my other units.
Forget flux core wire - if you're willing to deal with slag, just buy a stick unit - they're cheaper.
Plain mig wire welding requires welding gas - the best set up for boat building is a nice big gas bottle in a location were it is easy to change the bottle out - and a gas line long enough to reach any place on the boat (I have a 50ft gas line - it's about perfect). Then You only have to horse the welder to within 10ft of where you want to weld (my stinger was 15ft long). Not usually a big issue - mig is faster and cleaner than stick.
A spool gun lets you weld aluminum using your mig - which will come in handy somewhere. I used aluminum steps, hatch cover and turtleback, plus misc brackets - and tried my hand at welding aluminum fuel tanks with a spool gun to - don't repeat that mistake! If you want fuel proof welds in aluminum, go tig - which is why I ended up buying a third welder.... 
An Everlast Powerpro 205 - which if I had to do it all over again, would be the only welder I'd buy - because it's a combo unit - stick, tig and plasma cutter all in one - and it is GOOD at each process. My conscience is clear on all this one though - this welder option didn't exist when I started building.
I'd use stick with some long leads for tacking the hull together and most of welding out the hull., perhaps going to tig for a good percentage of the visible deck welds, most of the stainless and all the aluminum welds. Mostly I would use the tig to weld far more SS fittings to the deck - fewer holes, better joint strength at the cost of weld polishing. Tig is just so much more visible and controllable than the other options.
And the plasma cutter - well you'll just find those so handy - fast clean cuts in tight quarters with very little plate distortion. I had a separate dedicated plasma cutter - it was well utilized, but even then not as capable as the combo unit. I've since sold it.
Plasma Cutter
Wouldn't be without one - but today they're almost free if you buy a multi process unit like the Powerpro above - don't spend big bucks on a stand alone unit - do get a minimum of 28 amps (which requires a 240v feed). The Powerpro is a 50A cutter.
Welding Helmets
Not a place to go cheap (ever try sailing blind??) - get a good auto darkening helmet, it'll save your sight and radically improve your welding, because you'll be able to see your starts. Speedglas were good, but are getting pricy - I like and use Miller helmets now.Grinders
I found some cheap chinese welders when I first started, and thought they'd do the job - they did - for about a month - and then they died, just not up to the duty. I found Mastercraft (Canadian Tire) were good - mostly because they had a great warrenty (3 yrs) and there was never any argument when I took one back - about every two years - they'd just hand me a new one. My longest lasting grinder is a 5" Makita - 11 years and still going strong. Size wise, I did have a 7 inch grinder for hull grinding - but it got stolen, and I never replaced it - just too heavy. Ended up with a couple each rat tail 5" and stubby 4-1/2" which worked well - made it so I could have different discs (cutting, grinding, wirebrush) set up so I saved time, or have enough grinders on hand when an extra body appeared to grind welds (you end up doing a lot of that).
Misc
Plate clamp, lifting sling, and rated shackle - these work together to provide efficient & reliable plate lifting. You really don't want to lose control of a big plate, especially if you have friends at risk
- the plate clamp is faster than making a tack for a lifting point - which will also have to be ground off at some point later - and is quick and easy to shuffle sideways a bit if you didn't get it balanced the first time. This unit handles everything from thin sheet up to 5/8" plate, and has a 2T rating
- also came in handy as a lift point when I was slinging the motor, gearbox and rudder around in the boat.
- you can use chain or rope to hook up your lifts - but a sling is lighter, faster and more secure - and cheap. mine has lasted the length of the job, and will go sailing with us - just plain handy.
- the rated shackle is huge overkill - but again cheap insurance - and having it is what kept the sling from getting cut up on any rough eyes you do end up using.
- plate on the bottom of the cradle is amazingly floppy, so there were many areas we had to bring it up to the stringers.
more to come.
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